Walk Like an Egyptian

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A classic pose: What’s that on my foot?

Here’s some snazziness! Or is it just craziness? I tried to cheer myself up by making a dress that has sparkles AND lace AND contrasting pockets. My hat is my latest aquisition from the feria at Parque Centenario, trimmed with Chilean nationalist ribbon from my last fiestas patrias.

Judy wins this round.

Judy wins this round.

Thanks to Judy Garland in Meet Me in St. Louis, I have always wanted a straw boater of my very own – and now I have one. I’ll have to practice my moves quite a bit before Judy needs to worry about me moving in on her patch.

Contrast pockets ahoy

Contrast pockets ahoy

The lace and contrast pockets were caused by a slight miscalculation of fabric yardage but… invention is the daughter of cockups, as they say. The cotton/tinfoil fabric was bought (then discarded) for an Egypt-inspired college project at the end of last year.

Sweaty ole yoke

Sweaty ole yoke

I over-optimistically hoped for contrasting stripes on the yoke, but had to go for the (slightly shinier) reverse of the fabric in the end. I think it looks better this way. Except for the sweat patches, ignore them. It is CRAZY HOT in Buenos Aires. Anyone got a swimming pool? I would settle for a paddling pool. Or even a bath with ice in it.

Hollywood bag

Hollywood bag

The starry bag is from the V&A museum’s (now closed) Hollywood exhibition, which I visited when I was in London over Christmas. It was fabulous and I can say now that meeting your (dress) heroes is not always a bad thing. More on that later!

Tart

Honey, I ganached.

And… Happy Valentine’s day! I made my valentine the café au lait tart from Desserts for Breakfast, using dulce de leche for the milk jam (is it the same thing?) and fresh cherries instead of blueberry jam. We both feel seriously unwellingtons now. Ahhh, love and ganache – a match made in heaving.

An Old New Year and a Merry Unwedding

Oh those crazy London hipsters

Boo! I’m back! I just moved house so I decided to postpone New Year by a month, and therefore my resolution to blog more regularly. After all I do live in Latin America, and I have taken that as a wonderful excuse to embrace my laissez-faire attitude to timekeeping.

toast

That trait saw me in my dressing gown, using iron-on hem tape (!) to finish my shantung silk wedding party dress 20 minutes before our guests were expected. Luckily it didn’t start coming down until everyone was seriously refreshed and lacking the focus to see unravelling hems.

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We had such a lovely day. I managed to get lipstick, chocolate sauce, AND wine on my dress, which I think is the sign of a really good party. I really ought to get it dry cleaned before our actual wedding, whenever that may be… we were planning to do the legal bit before Christmas, but getting married in Argie turns out to be a bit more complicated than we had anticipated, so we went ahead with the party anyway. As it was Simon’s first visit to England for four years, we weren’t sure if we’d get another chance to celebrate lurve, union, and profiteroles with our families!6553483521_21177c9e7e_b

Speaking of families, what wouldn’t I have given to have had my lovely grandparents dance at our wedding? What a stylish pair. Nanny Sheila and Siddy’s ability to throw a terrific party definitely lives on in my parents. Especially when it comes to the buffet. I have more wonderful photos of them that deserve a post of their own.

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Simon surprised me by having one of his father’s suits adjusted. I think he looks rather elegant, don’t you? And crucially, the blue looks wonderful with my polka dots. IT’S ALL ABOUT THE DRESS.

Wine was drunk, delicious curry eaten, speeches spoken, and dances danced. Even karaoke was bravely attempted. Thanks to Mum and Dad for a terrific party, to my brother and sister for being turtley allsome, to everyone who came; and most of all to Simon, my media naranja. Gosh, it’s getting a bit like an Oscar’s acceptance speech in here, isn’t it? Without the obligatory nip slip.

Enough emotion! What about THE DRESS?

Many hours were wasted in procrastination about what style of dress to make. I briefly considered buying a dress to stop the dizzying brain vacillations. Pinterest was crucial in helping me not make up my mind, but on the board you can see many of the design features used in the final dress, as well as every other possible combination of design feature. And even some featurettes.

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Woah shexy

By a stroke of luck, Gertie’s Butterick 5814 pattern was released and includes two of the main elements I had decided on – a deep v-neckline and a drapey bit at the waist. I was rescued from the anxiety of making the pattern myself and was curious to try the first commercial pattern I have used in years.

My only complaint about the pattern is that I eventually had to make up the dress two sizes smaller than indicated by the envelope measurements. I’ve mentioned before my penchant for snug clothes, but I do think a boned dress should fit quite tightly and not have the 8cm+ ease that was apparent in the toile, making it almost completely useless for fitting purposes. Also, commercial pattern have crazy mad 1.5cm seam allowances! I had forgotten. What a waste of fabric.

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What a lovely angle

Here’s the adjusted toile. My mum and Dressmaker Sibling Issy helped me with the fitting, just like the shoemaker’s elves, they were! Though I didn’t wake on the morning of the party and find the dress magically finished. Bad elves. You can see how much has been taken out at the back by how close together the skirt darts are. In the end I decided just to throw in the toile towel completely and cut the silk two sizes smaller in the silk, which was terrifying.

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The back view shows a fitting problem that could have been solved with a working toile – the drag lines from the waist show it could have been a little looser in the hips. Looking back, this was evident from the toile I did make, but time was short and I was feeling too panicked to have deep fitting thoughts.

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Shoulder darts… and some unpleasant wrinkles

The sleeves I drafted myself, in a slightly unorthodox manner… using a very vague toile from the original pattern piece that Issy helped me fit to my arm with pins. I didn’t want the bother of making a two-piece sleeve like in the lovely version made by Laura Mae of Lilac and Lace, so I added a dart at the shoulder to stop the sleeves slipping off. The result is surprisingly effective, considering the slapdash method, and opened my eyes a bit to the possibility of design using draping techniques.

The fabric was bought from Charm’s (apostrophe theirs) in Buenos Aires’ fabric barrio, Once. I had flirted with the idea of a red dress, but this fabric fed my polka dot addiction and I fell for it even though I have never seen myself as a bridal white kind of person. The dress has a metal zip, as is usual in vintage-inspired dresses. I failed to add a hook and eye at the top. I had more urgent matters on my mind, like not wearing my pyjamas to my own wedding celebration. I won’t swear that I wouldn’t wear them to someone else’s.

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Every party should end with cheese on toast

There is a lot of pressure to wear the MOST AMAZING DRESS EVER for your wedding, which I certainly felt when deciding on the design. In the end I was happy with my dress, happy that I (finally) made it, and had a wonderful time in it. When it comes down to it though, a wedding is just another party – it’s what you wear during the rest of your marriage that really matters.

Winter is coming

Well it is for those of us who reside below the equator, and let me tell you something – there is no central heating down here! On particularly cold evenings we light the hobs and huddle round the oven.

A winter morning on the River Plate

I can see you’re all gobsmacked by the idea that it gets cold in mystical South America too. If it makes you feel better let’s pretend that I’m actually by the pool with a long island iced tea right now.

But back in reality (sigh), I’ve had to start eating porridge for breakfast again and you’ll have to give me a damn good reason to take off my Uruguayan sheepskin slippers. Just to make it a little bit harder to leave the house, I decided to make myself a fancy schmancy zebra fleece dressing gown.

Awesome slippers just out of shot

The concept behind this item, actually, is hideous. Fleece is my most abhorred fabric, coming from the odious world of sports casual, and zebra print fleece truly belongs nowhere but Hugh Hefner’s palace.

Doing a Myspace

I think it all came together rather snazzily though, wouldn’t you agree?

I made a hanging loop and eveything. Aren’t I profesh.

I’m not one of those fashion fans who can’t go to the corner shop without a full face of makeup, and I always have one special item of truly comfortable and gross clothing – the sartorial equivalent of instant noodles. So now you all know: next time you pop round I can make some ramen while wearing my zebra dressing gown. It’s a real relief to get it out into the open.

Hiatus hernia

Apologies for the hiatus, my little envelopes of joy! Sometimes real life gets in the way of genius. Even Jesus had a day job.

I did fit some sewing in around the avalanche of work; I’ve been perfecting a self-drafted shell top and have made three versions so far. The fit has been off on them all. If I’d known something so simple was going to be such a pain in the arse, I might have used Colette Pattern’s free sorbetto pattern instead. Probably not though, I am quite pigheaded.

Shell version 1 and 2

Of the first two incarnations, the peach one fits better. The red one is made out of cheap quilting cotton – when will I learn that cheap fabric makes for cheap-looking clothes?

Shell 3, in polka dot and yellow silk

Made out of silk, the third version fits best, and may even fit well when I’ve taken the shoulders up a bit. I seem to have a recurring fit problem of gappyness (yeah it’s a technical tem) in the shoulder and armscye areas – perhaps I need to make a small bust adjustment in my patterns, maybe I have narrow shoulders, or perhaps I’m just an idiot who always places the straps too far apart. Who knows!

Vogue - strike a pose

I’m trying to do that model thing here. It was supposed to be funny. For a better fit, I should submit to the inevitable and make a sloper. Lord above, Wikipedia says that a muslin is also known as a toile in English. Learning all of my sewing terms from US blogs and Spanish drafting lessons has really cocked a snook to my Queen’s English.

I did some other sewing too, but I’m tired, so tired. Let me leave you with the fabric Mr Dressmaker brought with him recently from the piles of stuff I left behind in Chile.

Cotton, silk and rayon scraps

Beautiful, beautiful scraps – cottons from a shirt commission, a fine silk I bought in Paris and two Liberty cottons all used for boxers. I can’t chuck these and yet they are so small… is the time of quilting upon us? I’ll probably use them up feeding my bias binding addiction.

Swimming costume fabric

Swimming costume fabric. I dig the seventies vibe, but I’m still a bit scared of sewing knits in general and this fabric in particular without an overlocker. The internet has a lot of information about sewing swimming costumes without one, but gahhhhh and ARGHHHH. Give me a valium.

Hearts Ikea fabric

This upholstery fabric is originally from Ikea, via god-knows-where, to a shop on Bandera and from thence into my fabric collection. I was going to make a cropped jacket like this one out of it, but now I think again that seems rather… inadvisable. A pencil skirt, perhaps? Just looking at it is challenging my finely tuned aversion to tweeness.

It might be destined to make a new pencil case because I’ve gone back to school! Yes, my fashion design course at EAMODA has finally begun. Certified fashion designs coming to this space soon.

That Dressmaker Sibling has done fun things to the blog design again. Some people manage to squeeze in both real life and genius.

It’s who you know, darlings

The Dressmaker Sibling’s outrageously talented contribution on the last instalment of Fashion Barometer Friday reminded me that I’ve got some beautiful photos of past sewing projects in my archives taken by professional photographer Kendal Montgomery, who just happens to be rather a good friend of mine.

Here I accessorize the Mrs Flax dress with a scarf tied round my ankle, in homage to The Breakfast Club’s criminal John Bender, actor Judd Nelson’s finest hour – and I mean finest in the strictly visual sense.

The Ice Pop skirt, buttons from Buenos Aires’ Mercado de San Telmo.

These photos were taken in Santiago’s Barrio Lastarria, my erstwhile home. Pop over to Kendal’s phlog to see more exciting photos of Chile – though I must warn you, most of them do not feature my stunning visage. Perhaps it’s for the best.

This blouse has not been featured on Dressmaker’s Curve because I made it in some very cheap cotton/polyester mix fabric solely to practise constructing what is known as a “notched collar”, according to this collar guide from Vogue Patterns. Follow this link for instructions on how to construct a notched collar from craftstylish. Wish I’d found that at the time!

While we’re on the subject of collaborations, I must draw your attention to the stunning new background for the blog, also designed by the Dressmaker Sibling. What style! What grace!

Thank you, lovely people, for making my blog a better place!

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